Shades of Political Correctness (again).
In the costume business, as in any other, the theory is that the customer is always
right. Unfortunately sometimes the customer has a Really Fun Idea, especially when it comes to the ‘Bad Taste’
theme: Nazis, Jimmy Saville and representations of the Twin Towers have all had their moment of media coverage. One can advise
but, in the end, it’s the customer’s choice (although some firms avoid the problem by not stocking controversial
One area where things get particularly interesting
is that of Political Correctness (PC). True, there are those who make PC a hobby: Getting fashionably offended
by things they haven’t actually seen/heard so they can join the chorus of disapproval, or scanning
the media for things to be offended by. Leaving them aside, there are issues to be addressed;
PC problems come in many guises and the one in question today is ‘Persons
of Colour’ We’re not even sure if that’s the currently correct phrase - a government
minister had to apologise for saying Labour’s Dianne Abbott was ‘coloured’ this week - but the bigger issue
is that of ‘blacking/browning up’. There are still those amazed that the BBC allowed the Black & White Minstrel
Show (where male singers made up in Blackface) to run as long as it did. Despite having Lenny Henry as a resident comedian,
the show was only pulled in the 1970s. The issues are obvious here, and although a B&W minstrel outfit exists on the market
(for the ‘benefit’ of Bad Taste events), we don’t have one (ditto the little chap who used to promote Robinson’s
The above issues are understandable. In costuming,
things are trickier when it comes to Pop Star portrayal: At a basic level, how does one portray Bob Marley or Diana Ross (or,
for that matter, the likes of Jimi Hendrix) without addressing the colour issue? Masks may be okay, but
are not always practical. Incidentally, this week we have had the added PC issue of the documentaries about the alleged serious
wrongdoings of Michael Jackson. Reaction has ranged from Radio 2 seemingly banning his music (although they deny it) to the
makers of The Simpsons withdrawing a episode featuring Jackson’s voice. We have three Jackson-related outfits, but whether
they need to be ‘retired’ remains to be seen.
Read All About It: World Book Day 7th March
After the excitement of Mardi Gras/Shrove Tuesday it’s
time to prepare for World Book Day on or around 7th March (some schools celebrate on different days due to timetabling/curriculum).
The prime objective of Book Day is to encourage
children to read, even involving the offer of free books sometimes, but exactly what constitutes a ‘book’ (for
the purpose of dressing as a character) is becoming a grey area: Like many aspects of costuming, things
have changed over the years with some of the traditional book characters often being superseded by more modern heroes/heroines.
However, these days, those heroes are as likely to come from comic books, action movies and video games as from the printed
page, and that can be a problem,
Often, schools are just keen to have the children getting involved, so don’t get fussy on character origins.
Others may channel the enthusiasm with relevant costume-creating within school time, and some side-step the issue completely
– a local school in our area wants children to dress as a word!
With books and libraries to an extent becoming an endangered species, it is good
that the World Book Day ethos still thrives. Reading is about stimulating the imagination as to how characters look and, sometimes,
identifying with their highs and lows. Unfortunately, films and TV adaptations can often undermine the process by presenting
the stories and characters fully formed or ‘reimagined’ with the story truncated or even altered for ‘dramatic
purpose’. Same with costumes – sometimes the client (adult or child) has a different vision of what a character
should look like and, of course, the customer is always right!
Let the Good Times Roll – it’s Mardi
Gras! (March 4th-5th 2019)
Although here in the UK we know it as Shrove Tuesday, in other parts of the world, notably the ‘centres’
of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, Rio de Janeiro and the West Indies, Tuesday sees the culmination of weeks of preparation, with
elaborate carnival parades and over-the-top costumes. Much of this is fuelled with food and drink as Carnival (Carne –vale
-‘Farewell to Flesh) is the last chance to celebrate prior to the sobriety of Ash Wednesday and Lent. In other locations,
such as Venice, home of the masters of masquerade, there have been more elegant carnival celebrations, and you can even find
the normally staid Germans getting involved in celebrations, some of which involve costumed women running around cutting off
So to celebrate Mardi Gras here in Britain,
you have the choice of playing with pancakes or getting creative with costumes. Actually, people are increasingly combining
the two. Although Olney in Buckinghamshire is looked on as the pioneer in pancake-racing, many people are now using the day
as a good excuse for some fund-raising built around this kind of event (and remember, we’re in the run-up to Comic Relief
on Friday 15th). Or just enjoy your pancakes - they may look crepe but they usually taste delicious.
- Wednesday 27th February 2019
Recently pockets have gone viral. This initially started when a bride had her dress, and those
of her bridesmaids, made with pockets, and posted a picture of said group on the Internet. Meanwhile, at the Oscars, Gemma
Chan, known for ‘Humans’ and soon to be seen in ‘Captain Marvel’
was admired for having pockets for food within her eye-catching evening wear.
It perhaps comes as a surprise
to about half the population (the male contingent) that such things are a rarity. Fact is that, with exceptions such as jeans,
they don’t come as standard on female clothing because they’d supposedly upset the line, fit and style. This is
why the other great object of mystery to males, the handbag, comes in useful.
When it comes to costumes, there is more gender equality
– pockets are rare on both male and female costumes. The reason/excuse is usually more to do with manufacturing costs
than style here. In fact in some cases, the females may even have an advantage in that the thoughtful manufacturer can (at
extra cost, obviously) supply a handbag accessory to complement the costume : Who could forget the chainsaw-style knick-knack
storage item available for the female version of Leatherface of Texas Chainsaw Massacre fame?
As some will know, in the early days of Antrix,
we made many of our costumes, often using official patterns. Such patterns still exist despite the decline in home-dressmaking
(although Great British Sewing Bee, currently back on our TV screens, revives enthusiasm) but unlike patterns for conventional
clothing, male or female, few costume patterns allow for pockets. Some can (and have been) adapted but no pockets seems a
gender-equal costume norm.
So if costumes don’t have pockets, obviously the question arises, what does your costumed superhero do for
storage? The classic streamlined skin-tight look is all very well (easy for comic-book artists to draw/colour) but practically,
where do they keep ‘things’, especially the costume, in secret identity situations? Supposedly Superman wears
his outfit under his Clerk Kent suit and keeps the cape ‘super-compressed’ until changing in a phone box. Sceptics
will see a number of problems here, and in the real world, no matter how super your speed, the physical confines of a phone
box make changing anything (except your mind about the phone-box/changing room concept
as a Good Idea) rather unworkable. ‘Back in the day’ ,the classic Adam West TV Batman possibly
had the best idea, with his multi-talented utility belt, home of the Batarang, Bat Shark repellent gas and, perhaps. the Batkerchief?
Feb 11th, 2019
It’s the 11th, and because in some quarters 11 is ‘Legs
Eleven’ we thought we would focus on matters relating to legs in female fashion, especially as today is the birthday
of Mary Quant, born February 11th, 1934 The iconic Sixties look was, of course, the
mini-skirt, widely agreed to have been ‘invented’ (or at least heavily popularised) by Quant, who also created
other distinctive looks such as the quadrant dress.
.Whilst employers came to terms with the new look with ‘modesty boards’ on desks, the girls
had to decide what to do with their newly revealed legs. For many, boots were the way forward, with the Jane Fonda film ‘Barbarella’
helping popularise the vinyl variety in the late 1960s. With girls having made all the effort to show their legs, there was
a reluctance to cover them up with tights (also a novelty), so many either went bare legged or, with the help of a creative
friend, wore body-paint style leg make-up to draw even more attention to their lower limbs.
this year, in April, the Victoria & Albert Museum is holding an exhibition of the works of this influential designer,
with many examples of her clothing designs and accessories.. It will open on Saturday 6th April – further
information can be found at www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/mary-quant
Feb 8th, 2019
With just a few days to go before the BAFTA (British Academy of Film and Television
Arts) awards ceremony on Sunday 10th, who would you like to see receive the awards this year? Have you
got any particular films that you enjoyed, which are not on the nominations list – at least the superhero blockbuster
‘Black Panther’ has a Best Film nomination? Alternatively, you may think there are some films which should not
have been nominated. Here at Antrix we try and keep up to date with what is going on in the world of Entertainment, as you
never know what costume you will be asked for next. This year, aside from The Favourite, which is up for
prizes at both major film award events, there are some ‘regional differences’: ‘Stan and Ollie’, about
Laurel & Hardy’s tour of Britain is noted by BAFTA but ignored by the Oscars which favours American-based films
such as Green Book and Vice. The dark horse at both events is Bohemian Rhapsody, the Freddie Mercury biopic, hated by critics
but loved by the masses.